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  • Start Here
  • Urban
  • Wild
  • In-Between
  • By Region
    • Asia
    • Europe
    • Middle East
    • North America
    • Oceania
  • In-Between

    1 Year of New Zealand Selfies: March & April

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    For the next couple months I travel all over the place, just watching the kilometers on my car add up and up. My grandparents join me for 16 days of fun (but not 16 nights of hostels). Then, lo and behold, I have more visitors.

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  • In-Between

    Haere Rā: Farewell, New Zealand

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    I’m sitting by a beach in west Auckland. It’s a sheltered beach, part of the Manakau Harbor. The waves are soft and calm and consistent and they are the only sound other than the occasional whistle of a bird and a few chirping insects. I’ve been in NZ for 288 days.

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  • In-Between

    Three Actual Trip Itineraries I’ve Done in New Zealand

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    This post includes three actual itineraries for trips I planned and executed with the participating parties. Each group came for a different amount of time with different goals (which I've also listed). Each was a successful trip, though I will include a few lessons learned at the end of each itinerary.

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  • Wild

    Tongariro Alpine Crossing – A Love Affair with a Volcano

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    When we went out to the car in the morning, the air was crisp and chilly. A thin layer of ice coated my windshield. I was reminded of Colorado, of pink-nosed mornings watching the sun come up while out hunting. Hardly a cloud threaded the sky.

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  • In-Between

    Why I Had to Jump in New Zealand

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    "Any advice?" I wonder if the man I'm speaking to can hear the wobble in my voice. I imagine my eyes are coated in a shiny sheen of madness, but he must be used to that by now.

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  • In-Between

    Kunkels in Kaikoura: the End of the Line

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    I wake up on day 18. There's a horrible little thought in my head. Abel Tasman was such a world of it's own that there was no room for intruding thoughts. But Abel Tasman is now behind me, and there is that horrible little thought growing bigger and bolder...

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  • In-Between

    Spoiled in the Sand: Adventures in Abel Tasman National Park

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    The beach-side spoiling actually starts two days before Abel Tasman National Park when the bus pulls up to our AirBnB in Mapua, which is a small coastal town about half an hour from Nelson in the Tasman Bay. Not only is it beach front with a beautiful deck and soft sand, but it is so close to the Mapua Wharf...

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  • In-Between

    Everything I Know About the Kunkel Curse

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    For as long as I can remember, my dad has talked about the Kunkel Curse. Along the same veins of Murphey's Law, the Kunkel Curse says: The more I want something, the more likely it will never happen. Already, just talking on the phone with my dad before he flew to New Zealand, he was already warning me of the…

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  • In-Between

    The Kunkel Clan Arrives in New Zealand!

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    It starts months ago. First there are flights to buy. Then, when I buy a four-seater Suzuki Swift, there's a five person rental car to reserve. Later, there are emails and phone calls and FaceTimes, accommodations to choose, activities to book, bikes to rent.

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  • Wild

    Trekking with Kiwis – Off the Beaten Path

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    This story begins at the end of a dirt road far past the jewel-like Lake Ohau in the middle of the South Island. The dirt road carries a two-vehicle caravan down ruts and pot-holed roads. Sometimes the road splits to mirror the braided river to our right, letting our guide/driver choose his own adventure: a mini canyon carved out of…

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  • Wild

    The Magical Milford Track and the Invention of Sandflies

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    A car. A bus. A boat. Finally, I arrive at the beginning of the Milford Track. One of New Zealand’s 10 Great Walks and often dubbed the Finest Walk in the World. So here I am. At the beginning of the Milford Track. Ahh, breathe it in. Take in the view. Snap a photo…

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  • In-Between

    Middle Earth Magic in New Zealand

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    I've never been one to obsess over actors, over sets, over costumes. I don't care about who played the character or where the movie was filmed or how the magic happened. I like the characters, the plot, the story. However, there is one film series that is a little bit different.

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  • Wild

    Dueling Volcanoes and Fire Power in Tongariro National Park

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    What I imagined I would see when I reached Tongariro National Park was a battle ground: Open horizons. Scars of black rock, like charred ground. Rubble. Dry, choking air. A barren place. Hard. Void. Dark... Blame Mordor, I guess.

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  • In-Between

    1 Year of New Zealand Selfies: January & February

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    Happy 2024 from New Zealand! For the beginning of the year, I visited volcanoes, dropped back down to the South Island, and went on two epic adventures! Then, my parents and my aunt and uncle arrived for almost three weeks of fun!

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  • In-Between

    A Backpacker’s Life, Introvert Style

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    How, you might wonder, does someone who loves spending weeks at home just reading and writing, deal with the constant change of location? How does an introverted, large-group adverse, anti-heavy-drinking, control-loving, homebody juggle her dichotomous desire to cheaply travel and explore the rest of the world? I'm here to give you the answer: small routines and big organization skills.

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  • In-Between

    Photos from New Zealand Christmas and New Year

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    My expectations of a Kiwi Christmas were, in no particular order: BBQ, beach, summer fun, games, big gatherings, and tables shuddering with the amount of delicious food. These expectations, I believe, could have been met by many families (as I've heard stories of recounted holidays from many Kiwi's on my journeys), but the couple I stayed with did things quite…

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  • In-Between

    Crashing through the Catlins + Cool Coastlines

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    Actually, I drove incredibly carefully through the Catlins--which is how I usually drive. However, since I had a lot of ground to cover in a short amount of time, it did feel a bit like careening wildly through the region. Thankfully, I had driven out to see a few sites at the edge of the Catlins area when I'd been…

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  • In-Between

    Stewart Island: The Island of the Birds

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    Throughout my wanderings, multiple travelers have told me that Stewart Island was one of their favorite places in New Zealand. Stewart Island is at the bottom of the South Island. I'd loosely been planning on visiting the island (because I'd been to the farthest northern point, may as well try to get to the southern point!) before I heard these…

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Hi, I'm Maddie!

An adventurer writing my way through travel mishaps, unforgettable moments, and the human connections that make travel unforgettable.

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