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The Magical Milford Track and the Invention of Sandflies
A car. A bus. A boat. Finally, I arrive at the beginning of the Milford Track. One of New Zealand’s 10 Great Walks and often dubbed the Finest Walk in the World. So here I am. At the beginning of the Milford Track. Ahh, breathe it in. Take in the view. Snap a photo…
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Middle Earth Magic in New Zealand
I've never been one to obsess over actors, over sets, over costumes. I don't care about who played the character or where the movie was filmed or how the magic happened. I like the characters, the plot, the story. However, there is one film series that is a little bit different.
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Dueling Volcanoes and Fire Power in Tongariro National Park
What I imagined I would see when I reached Tongariro National Park was a battle ground: Open horizons. Scars of black rock, like charred ground. Rubble. Dry, choking air. A barren place. Hard. Void. Dark... Blame Mordor, I guess.
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Photos from New Zealand Christmas and New Year
My expectations of a Kiwi Christmas were, in no particular order: BBQ, beach, summer fun, games, big gatherings, and tables shuddering with the amount of delicious food. These expectations, I believe, could have been met by many families (as I've heard stories of recounted holidays from many Kiwi's on my journeys), but the couple I stayed with did things quite differently.
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The Sound of Silence: A Little Luxury and a Lot of Peace in Doubtful Sound
As we set sail on the 42 kilometer sound, one of the bigger ones in Fiordland, I nose my way around the ship, claiming my bunk and finding the best view points. Over a snack, we get some Fiordland history that answers some of my burning questions. First, what is a sound and what is a fiord?
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Rainy Routeburn: My First Great Walk
To be perfectly honest, I was not feeling all that excited the night before I was set to do the Routeburn Track. Because of the popularity of these Great Walks, you generally have to book your huts far in advance, which means you have no idea what the weather is going to do. When I checked in with the DOC office the day before my big hike, the ranger told me to expect rain all day on Day 1 and to wake up to snow on Day 2.
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A Week in Wanaka Getting High
Wanaka is a town in the Otago region of the South Island. Not far from Queenstown, it's located on the shores of Lake Wanaka. And Lake Wanaka is a ginormous and stunning blue lake that fills an old glacial valley. That means there is plenty of room to spread out on the flat valley floor and that the lake edge consists of steep, rocky mountains. It's a great combination from any angle. But Wanaka's best angle is definitely from above.
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Arthur’s Pass: My Favorite Alpine Region of New Zealand
You know a valley is glacially carved because it is U shaped: a wide, flat bottom and steep sides. The narrow Arthur's Pass Valley is a glacially carved valley, though not as wide and flat as many other glacial valleys in NZ. But the second feature--the steep sides--is very much present.
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Goodness Glaciers, Great Balls of Ice
In New Zealand, Kiwi's pronounce glacier differently. I say "Glay-sure," with an sh sound in the middle. But Kiwi's say "Glass-ee-er". I like it. It makes what is essentially a several-kilometer-long hunk of ice capable of re-shaping entire landmasses sound very delicate. Fragile.
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Solo Hiking and Lessons about Life: The Copland Track
The Copland Track starts with bluster. Less than 50 yards from the carpark is the biggest river crossing: Rough Creek. According to river crossing safety, it's not recommended to take off your shoes to cross a river, but the hostel owner in Fox told me I should take off my shoes so I didn't have to hike the next eleven miles with squelching shoes. It's also best to cross a river at the widest point. It means you spend more time with your feet in chilly water, but the water is generally slower and less forceful as it's power is spread thin. So I searched for the widest area, where…
