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A Week in Wanaka Getting High
Wanaka is a town in the Otago region of the South Island. Not far from Queenstown, it's located on the shores of Lake Wanaka. And Lake Wanaka is a ginormous and stunning blue lake that fills an old glacial valley. That means there is plenty of room to spread out on the flat valley floor and that the lake edge…
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Arthur’s Pass: My Favorite Alpine Region of New Zealand
You know a valley is glacially carved because it is U shaped: a wide, flat bottom and steep sides. The narrow Arthur's Pass Valley is a glacially carved valley, though not as wide and flat as many other glacial valleys in NZ. But the second feature--the steep sides--is very much present.
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Goodness Glaciers, Great Balls of Ice
In New Zealand, Kiwi's pronounce glacier differently. I say "Glay-sure," with an sh sound in the middle. But Kiwi's say "Glass-ee-er". I like it. It makes what is essentially a several-kilometer-long hunk of ice capable of re-shaping entire landmasses sound very delicate. Fragile.
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Solo Hiking and Lessons about Life: The Copland Track
The Copland Track starts with bluster. Less than 50 yards from the carpark is the biggest river crossing: Rough Creek. According to river crossing safety, it's not recommended to take off your shoes to cross a river, but the hostel owner in Fox told me I should take off my shoes so I didn't have to hike the next eleven…
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A Weekend at Mount Cook – New Zealand’s Tallest Mountain
It seems to me that humanity in general has an obsession with tall things. Such things come in multiple flavors: man-made, like the Empire State Building, the Eiffel Tower. Or wondrous natural occurrences, such as Mount Everest. In New Zealand, it’s Mount Cook (Aoraki in te reo Maori). The obsession seems to extend to getting on top of tall things:…
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Highlights of the Road South: Methven to Omarama
In traveling from Christchurch to Lindis Pass (gateway to Wanaka, Queenstown, and many of the activities most tourists come to experience), I discovered some lovely places on, and off, the beaten path. Mount Sunday got it's name because boundary riders would meet at the tiny mount on Sundays.
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Home on the (Mountain) Range
This post picks up where I left off: traveling from Westport back to the East Coast of the South Island. Though I’d made the same drive only six days previous, I didn’t take the time then to stop and appreciate the beauty (partly because I didn’t even know I’d reached Lewis Pass until I’d passed it!). My return drive, I…
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I Would Drive 500 Miles…Just to Hike 20 More
I compile my items and hop in the car to drive from Kaikōura to Karamea. From East Coast to West Coast in one day. New Zealand is such a small country. But...also not that small. It's 263 miles, but will take seven hours. Distance-wise it's like driving from Longmont to North Platte, Nebraska. But it will take almost twice as…
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Dizzy and Delighted in Kaikoura
Kaikoura is one of those places that I didn't imagine could exist before I arrived. What I mean by that specifically: I had never before imagined a place where snowy mountains met the sea in such a combination of wild coast and snow-capped crowns. Nor could I have possibly imagined swimming in that ocean the morning after a frosty night…
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The North of the South: Picton to Golden Bay
Crossing the Cook Strait between the North Island and the South Island felt like embarking on a completely new adventure. Perhaps it was the high expectations. Afterall, nearly every person I've spoken to, kiwi and traveler alike, told me the South Island was the best island, that it would blow my mind, that it was far more beautiful. All of…
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Photos from the Kaimai Range
I visited the Kaimai Range several times while I was staying in Whiritoa, so they were disjointed visits. Hour long drives out and back through small towns and straight roads (shocking, but the Waikato region nearby actually has straight roads!). However, since I visited about three times in the span of three weeks, there is no backbone to the whole…
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My Pinnacles Experience: Hiking to Great Heights
First, I bought a sleeping bag. And that meant I had to do it. Hike the Pinnacles. Stay overnight in the DOC (Department of Conservation) hut. And (hopefully) love it--because one measly overnight stay wasn't going to justify the sleeping bag purchase. The Pinnacles Hut is the most popular hut in New Zealand.
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A Hidden Paradise in Whiritoa, New Zealand
On Google Maps, Whiritoa looks like a beach town at the very bottom of the Coromandel Peninsula on the east coast. As I drove in through 16 kilometers of windy S-curves and 180-degree switchbacks, and then entered the town, I realized that I had been wrong. This was no town. Rather, it was a collection of a few hundred houses…
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The Jurassic World of New Zealand’s North
I stomp along a muddy track. Bright green moss clings to trees, ferns stretch feathery boughs wide. The air is heavy, humid. The absence of other hikers makes me feel like an explorer. Thankfully, New Zealand has no large predators, so when the canopy above erupts in chaos, I know it's only a fleeing bird rather than a pterodactyl swooping…
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Getting My Feet Wet in Whangarei
Whangārei is located about two hours north of Auckland in the Northland region of the North Island. This (as I consider it) is the true start of my backpacking experience. Auckland was simply "traveling." However, in Whangārei, I feel like a real person, rather than Traveler Maddie. I finally am beginning to feel like New Zealand Maddie.
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The Seaweed Queen of Great Barrier Island
I’ve got a hot cup of tea resting on the arm of the couch beside me. Dirt traces crescents beneath my fingernails, like shadows lurking beneath a stone. Seaweed flakes dot my blue shirt, and the hem of the t-shirt that peaks out beneath it.
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Yellowstone NP: The Current State of Bear Affairs
While visiting Yellowstone National Park at the end of May, my parents and I spent at least half of our time watching the wildlife. While many of these animals mostly reside in Yellowstone these days, at one point the entire stretch of the Rocky Mountains sported all these animals. Some still do, such as elk, deer, and big horn sheep,…
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Where the Buffalo Roam–Some Thoughts on Yellowstone NP
National Parks remind me that once the whole west was as starkly beautiful and untouched by exploitation. But no longer. Yellowstone reminds me how, then and now, control is everything. Not harmony. Control. In 1872, the land of Yellowstone NP didn't have to be protected from Native American tribes who had called it home for centuries. It only needed to…
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