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Aix-periences Closer to Home: Montagne Sainte-Victoire and Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur
Montagne Sainte-Victoire A friend and I decided to hike the prominent mountain to the northwest of Aix: Montagne Sainte-Victoire. We began by walking along the ridge (above right), then the trail pretty much goes straight up the side of the peak. It’s a total of 10 kilometers and over 1,700 feet of altitude gain. Despite the hot sun, it was a great hike. We got to scramble up rocks and had amazing views the whole time. In the 13th century, a chapel was built on top of the mountain. Today it’s called the Priory of Sainte Victoire, but it was abandoned in the 17th century. Now it’s a popular spot…
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A Day in Marseille: History and Street Art in France’s Oldest City
La Porte d’Aix is Marseille’s triumphal arch, like the Arc de Triomphe. Construction begun in 1784 to honor the Peace of Paris, which ended the American Revolutionary War. The arch was finished in 1839. It marks the entry point to the city on the old road from Aix-en-Provence. Marseille has existed as a port city for over 2,500 years, the oldest city in France and one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Europe. This area of town is known as the old port (Vieux Port). Behind me, on the hill in the background, is the Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde. It was constructed in the 1800s, but a chapel…
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La Côte d’Azur: Sunshine, Flowers, and Spring-time!
Spring has come in Nice, France! The colors are bright, the sea clear, and the sun shining. We walked through the old town, grabbing a lunch of traditional foods: socca (flatbread made from chickpea flour), pissaladière (pizza topped with onions, anchovies, and olives), and les petits farcis (eggplant and zucchini stuffed with ground meat and garlic). We met our Airbnb host and dropped off our bags after climbing four stories of narrow steps to the very top of the building. These pictures are around the entrance to our apartment. The door is sandwiched between a tea shop and a specialty salt shop in the Old Town. Like many cities in…
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The History of Geneva, as told by a Church
When I told my dad I was going to Geneva for the weekend, his reply was, “I’ve always wanted to go to Switzerland, and now you’re going there…in a way.” F for geography skills, Dad, because Geneva is in Switzerland. But, also, I know exactly what he means. It sure doesn’t feel like Switzerland. It just feels like a big city…where they happen to still speak French. Nonetheless, I had a good time exploring the city. We saw the infamous Jet d’Eau. This is the tallest fountain in the world at 140 meters. Originally, Geneva had a 30 meter fountain intended to release the pressure from a hydraulic plant. It…
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A+ for Annecy and the Alps
I took a whirlwind day trip to Annecy today, beginning at 5 am. It’s a process to get out of Aix; it’s a 35 minute walk to the bus station, and then a 20 minute ride to the train station…and then, finally, the real journey can begin. And begin it did. We had delays on our ride to Lyon, only to arrive and find that our next train had been canceled. You aren’t truly in France if your transportation isn’t interrupted by a strike at least once! But we did eventually reach Annecy, a charming little town known as “the Venice of the Alps.” I was glad to see snow…
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If Even Popes get Castles…Why Can’t I Have One?
Avignon and Pont du Gard. A day trip spanning Roman times to medieval history to modern day. La Palais des Papes In 1305 Pope Clement V moved the papacy from Rome to Avignon. He did this because he felt unsafe in Rome, and also because the muggy weather didn’t agree with him. The palace that exists today was constructed a few decades later under Benedict XII in 1334 and continued in 1342. The palace is the largest medieval Gothic palace in the world. In 1376, Pope Gregory XI moved papal power back to Rome, but when he died two years later a new pope was elected in Rome and an…
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Ataturk in Ankara: Veneration of the Victors
As we wandered the Mausoleum and museum, it felt strangely Roman. Not in design, but in sentiment. In Ancient Rome, past Caesars were worshipped as gods. This enormous monument and the veneration in our guide's voice as he spoke of Ataturk held a similar resonance. It was a bit disturbing to view the abject worship of a man that I consider a dictator. But when you agree with the dictator, when you read and learn the history shaped by the dictator, of course you don't view the person as dictatorial--instead, you see a hero.
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Pamukkale: Sunken Cities and White Travertines of Healing
Everyone loves a good spa. Especially one with magical healing properties. Pamukkale, in the coastal Aegean region of Turkey, is one such place. Well, the magic is hear-say, though I found it magical. With white stone, perfect turquoise water, and roman ruins beneath my kicking feet--it's about as magical as one can get.
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Kusadasi: Seaside Getaway with a Hidden Face
Kusadasi, on the Turkish coast, is a seaside town with beautiful views. Bargain beach hunters flock to Kusadasi in the summer months, but, it’s not just a beach town. Truly magnificent history lies only a few miles away… But first, some relaxation! And now, the sites! House of the Virgin Mary Mary is believed to have spent the last years of her life living on a mountain above the city of Ephesus. The foundation of her home is the base of the church that squats among the green trees today. The Basilica of Saint John St. John lived to nearly 100 years of age, and he is believed to have…
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The Ruins of Ephesus: A City Out of Time
I've never seen anything like Ephesus. I've never seen a Roman home with original tiling. I've never seen rows of shops with the original carved signs detailing the shops offerings. And most importantly, I've never seen it all together, so well preserved as a single city. That's Ephesus, a true step back in time. A true city preserved like no other.