Solo Travel Snapshots in Vietnam: Morning Castle Hike

This is my Solo Travel Snapshots in Vietnam Series.

I spent 33 days in Vietnam. Each day brought something different–a different experience or surprising thought or new challenge. I cannot possibly share them all, and even if I did, so much would fall short. Instead of sharing my day-to-day everyday, I want to capture the essence of my Vietnam experience in 10 vivid snapshots. This series will consist of those 10 solo travel snapshots that encapsulate many repeat experiences in Vietnam and throughout Southeast Asia.

This is #3.

Solo Travel Snapshots in Vietnam

1. The comedic feeling of yet another thing going wrong, plus needing to relinquish control
2. The bonds of travelers
3. The peace and serenity of a solo morning exploration
4. Remembering not to sweat the small stuff–or the sweaty stuff
5. Plastic toddler tables = the best food

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June 15, 2024

The highlight of my time in Ha Giang is the morning of the second day. I set my alarm for an hour and half before the other girls (I had told them I was going hiking and that they were welcome to join, but they wanted to sleep) and crawl out of bed into the still silence of the room.

Beyond, I walk the streets of Dong Van town, guessing on the path to take to reach the ruins of a French fortress I’d read about the day before. A sign in town had talked about some of the heritage of the area and mentioned the French fort (built in the late 19th and early 20th century).

Guided by the little bit of information from that sign and some Googling, I find a neighborhood street that takes me past old town and then directs me up a steep road. Google tells me the fort is called Don Cao by the locals (or high fortress).

I keep climbing.

It is humid. I am sweating already, water running down my face in rivulets, like a car window when it pours. Parts of the rough concrete road are slippery, covered in algae. I look back and realize that I am circling the karst limestone tower that rises over old tower. I realize that I can I see the faint straight lines of the fortress atop the karst tower.

Another 10-15 minutes of sweaty climbing get me there. The road ends and I climb the greenery-covered steps. The vegetation is working hard to reclaim the fortress.

There is something entirely magical about being in stone ruins with doors to nowhere.

Walls and arches still stand, covered in moss. It’s idyllic and quiet. I’m the only one here and the noises of the town below are long left behind. I explore the structure and climb onto the observation deck for 360 degree views of the mountains and the town below. It’s gray and cloudy, everything hanging low to obscure the tops of the mountains, but as I continue to explore, the rising sun begins to lift the clouds.

I get to see more of the bulbous mountains that so intrigue and delight me.

As my time dwindles, I cannot be more happy that I rose with the sun hoping to find this place.